Thoughts in Advance of Thanksgiving

I have never hosted a Thanksgiving gathering, but I hope to do so someday. I need to get a bit more settled, and have a home with the space (I have a big extended family), and until then I’m content to go to my mother's, my in-laws', or one of my siblings' houses, and bring a bottle of wine and a side dish.

I always look forward to the New York Times Dining section the week before the big day. The paper presents a platonic version of the holiday—many bright pictures and plenty of savory recipes, with no dishes to clean, or family arguments to regret.

Today’s edition includes a video about how to carve a turkey, Mark Bittman’s novel take on side dishes (think raw vegetables), Julia Moskin’s survey of innovative pie making, and Eric Asimov’s suggestions for hard cider.

And Harold McGee weighs in with a column that's of year-round interest: what cooking oil is best for frying, and why.  He concludes that it’s a matter of taste and spending habits, but one thing he mentions gave me pause. “Frequent exposure to frying fumes has been found to damage the airways of both restaurant and home cooks. Fresh oils, and in particular fresh olive oils, generate the fewest toxic aldehydes,” he writes. I believe I’ll stick with the olive oil I favor.

If you are a father and you have a story about cooking your first (or any) Thanksgiving dinner, I'd like to hear it. Please drop me a line.

More Thoughts on Thanksgiving, include Cosmic Ones

Astronaut

I’ve arrived after much effort at my mother’s house on Thanksgiving Eve, with my wife, two children, and two in-laws in tow. Leaving Manhattan this evening after attending a party there, we looked like an immigrant family en route to Orchard Beach–three adults on the front bench of my father’s Chevy, two kids and a mother squeezed in the back.

My twenty-year old nephew Sean is also visiting. Santa Maria and I spent the evening running around, bathing the kids, reading them books, and getting them into bed. Meanwhile, Sean, who is 6′ -2″ and 185 pounds, started to eat everything in sight. He saved me some leftover chicken from the night before, but then he polished off half a block of cheddar cheese.

I was watching him out of the corner of my eye, and it reminded me of growing up. As one of five, I often felt like I couldn’t get enough to eat. There was plenty of food around the house, but there were plenty more mouths getting up earlier (or staying up later) and eating all the remaining Girl Scout Cookies, for example, or downing the last of the Cheerios in the cupboard.

Every time Sean made a move, it felt to me like the rustling of the dinosaurs in the movie “Jurassic Park.” Thump. Thump. Thump. The water in the glass ripples. A shadow falls around a corner. The horror! It’s the Consume-asaurus Sean coming. Run for the hills!

The family stress of Thanksgiving leave me feeling like I’m being pulled in eight different directions. It’s what I imagine being in space is like. As for what astronauts actually eat, Space.com has all the details, including what’s served to orbiting crew members on Thanksgiving.

Expectations about Thanksgiving (mine and others)

Over the past few years, I've spent a lot of money, if not a lot of time, in therapy, and I've had such a good experience that I'm thinking about renaming this blog Stay on the Couch Dad. I won't, though, because what's going on in my kitchen is more universally appealing than what's going on in my head.

Still, it's hard to divorce family memories from food, and one of the biggest food-and-family fests of the year is rapidly approaching. That is, of course, Thanksgiving. Today's Times has a good article on the troubling family dynamics that can develop around the dining room table. My favorite part of the article is at its end:

"Betsy [a high school teacher in Boston] said her cousin also complained of holiday
meal tension with her own family, so the two devised a strategy to help
each other cope. Each made bingo cards, but instead of numbers, the
squares were filled in with some of the negative phrases they expected
to hear during the meal, like “That outfit is interesting” or “Your
children won’t sit still.” As comments were made at the separate family
celebrations, each woman would mark her card.

“Whoever fills up a bingo row first,” Betsy said, “sneaks off to call the other and say, ‘Bingo!’

For my own part, I'm getting a break from cooking. My sister Mary, who is the current winner of the family real-estate lottery with a nice house (two floors! a yard!) in Connecticut, is hosting. I'm delighted to be joining her. She is being very generous–much of the extended family will be there. I'll be bringing my in-laws along with the wife and kids. My contribution is minimal. I'll be making turnip as a side dish.

Turnip was one of my favorite dishes on Thanksgiving. The other was a spicy creamed spinach that my grandmother introduced and that my own mother has taken to making. Other than those dishes, I never much liked what is served at Thanksgiving. Of course, I feel heretical saying this, but it is true. Turkey? I could take it or leave it. Gravy? Never cared for the stuff. Stuffing? I had a weird thing about it. I only liked what I guess is called Stove Top Stuffing–the stuff my mother would bake outside the turkey. It was crunchy, and I liked that. My most embarrassing favorite dish–canned cranberry relish. I liked the way the can itself left rings around the tasty red circles.

One of the things I'm dealing with in therapy are the expectations I inherited. I'm now dwelling on what unconscious expectations I'm handing down to my own children. They're not pretty. I have a tendency to look on the dark side of things, for example. My father was a trial lawyer who specialized in malpractice and personal injury suits. For every cup of coffee, there was the case of the exploding coffee maker that burned a child. For every country road, there was an intersection in which a drunken driver mowed down two young lovers in a Volkswagen van. For every new building I lived in during college with a beautiful view of the treetops, there was a lack of a fire exit. Or so I was told by my father.

I'm now curbing my tendency to do the same thing to my kids. Nina wants to bring a toy to school to show her friends? I have to stop myself from saying, "You're going to lose it in the classroom." I'm working on it.

Thanksgiving presents an opportunity. The holiday is built around expectations. Turkey, gravy, stuffing, and a laundry list of sides. Family and friends and, what will it be? Arguments over politics? How to raise one's children? What to eat or not to eat? Those are just a few ideas I pulled from my own memory and from today's Times article. But I like to see my family, so I'm hoping that enjoying the company of family will be an expectation I'll be handing down to my children.

Speaking of expectations, I had a few of my own mangled last week when I saw a great article by Mark Bittman in the Times about what to make for the coming dinner. He offered 101 suggestions. The headline, though, is what threw me: "101 Head Starts on the Day." Missing its connection to the holiday entirely, I thought it was 101 ideas To Get Food Ready for a Given Workday. I was thrilled. Finally, an article I could really use. But, no, it was not about getting ready for the everyday, it was about getting ready for the big day. Alas.